Monday, August 27, 2007

REVIEW: The Peel Pub- ** / $

The Peel Pub is a popular dining location for tourists in Montreal. With almost any tourist package you would receive coupons for free breakfasts. These breakfasts consist of some kind of toast, two eggs, and bacon or sausage. A pretty good deal for a free coupon. Unfortunately, past that is where the problems begin.

The Peel Pub used to be on, get this, Peel Street, or Rue Peel. It changed locations about a year back, which confused the hell out of me on my most recent visit. Unlike before, it’s no longer underground, which means light actually gets inside. The inside is all pub. This place is a sports bar through and through, and is backed up by somewhere in the neighborhood of 4,370 televisions. They show the widest variety of sports I’ve ever seen in a bar. One visit I saw soccer from God-knows-where on one television with figure skating on another. They are an equal opportunity sports bar, to be sure. Other than that, the décor is neither good nor bad.

Service is a sore spot for me and my entourage. It has been great at times and yet other times utterly abysmal. I wonder if, upon presentation of our free-breakfast coupons, they just immediately relegate us to a status one step above a bum. This is entirely unacceptable. A free breakfast is not worth being treated like dirt. Moreover, not included with the breakfast is any sort of drink. The cappuccino was crap and the serving of orange juice we received for $2(C) was far too small. We would have to spend six dollars or more on OJ alone to feel satisfied.

Breakfast out and it’s decent. Nothing special, but at least it’s edible. And here’s a tip, in Montreal, they DO NOT know what eggs-over-hard is. If you want the yolks broken, ask for that. The juice is alright, and everything is cooked competently. I also can’t argue with the cheap prices for most breakfast items. Still, the horrid service is inexcusable. As a bar, the Peel Pub excels. Their drink menu is vast, with over forty varieties of beer in bottle and about ten beers on tap. Combined with the cheap dinner menu, I can only imagine that this would be a delightful place to have drinks and watch the game. But as a restaurant and breakfast place, The Peel Pub is barely adequate.

The Peel Pub: **
Price range for two: $10-$20(C)

http://www.peelpub.com

The Peel Pub
1196, Peel Street
Montreal, Qc
514-844-7296

Hours
Breakfast: Daily 7am to 11:30am
Lunch & Dinner: Daily 7am to 2am

Sunday, August 26, 2007

REVIEW: Cafe Nuovo- ***1/2 / $$$$

I had initially heard of Cafe Nuovo because of the desserts. Later, I would hear other things, but for the most part, people raved about the desserts. After finally going a few times, pretty much everything I heard was confirmed.

Nuovo is a notorious haunt for Waterfire-zombies and businessmen getting blasted. While I didn't witness any zombies on my trips, the business crowd was in full force. Unfortunately for Nuovo, this crowd causes a lot of noise during peak hours that undoubtedly annoy other patrons. It certainly annoyed me. One of the poor wait staff was charged with handling a table-full of them. Judging from the diners, as they got drunker, she got more attractive.

The restaurant's ambiance is very nice. I loved the high-backed chairs. The lighting is romantic. And tables are perfectly dressed. It had a casual trendiness that wasn't overpowering, just... chic. Something about the design hasn't aged well, though. It seems too 1990's modern. Service is beyond fast. Wait staff is a well-oiled machine with few hiccups. They apologized for the long wait and I didn't know what they meant. I had been sitting for no more than three minutes before I was inundated with wait staff. I had heard that the staff is primarily male. I saw a number of women, but they were treated strangely. At times, the men would kind of hijack tables from the women, much to the visible annoyance of the women. Very odd.

The menu is good. I liked the play of certain styles and ingredients, but the success of that play is spotty. Some Asian-influenced dishes, such as the Szechuan Surf & Turf, are so heavy on the salt as to nearly overpower the dish. Prices are odd. The adequate crab cake costs an eye-popping $13, but the filet is a very reasonable $31. I was somewhat disappointed in the selection. There was some grilled pizza that did not belong on the menu. It was tossed on as though paying homage to the city Nuovo calls home. Don't bother. People can get pizza elsewhere. Give me something new. And really, that was the biggest complaint. Nothing new. Food presentation is glorious from beginning to end, but it's covering up food that uses fusion to further hide blasé recipes.

The wine list is very good, but expensive. Some barely adequate vintages carried insane prices. A good example is Opus One, which is everywhere. Most other places carry it in the $200 range. Here, it's nearly $300. They had some affordable wines listed, but not many, and only two bottles go below $30. I've been warned that the wines are aimed at the business crowd, for when you have the expense account card with which to splurge. I agree with this assessment. Moreover, my personal rule of thumb to determine a crap sommelier, whether Opus One is the priciest wine on the list, is just barely overcome with only four bottles more expensive, and by less than $20.

Now to the good stuff, the desserts. Stunning presentation and inventiveness give you art when you expect crème brûlée. And at $9 each, they're an absolute bargain. Baked Alaska? Hooyah! Mousse? Badaboom! I can't recommend the food completely, but the desserts are impossible to not recommend. As for other aspects of the night's conclusion, my cappuccino was the largest I've ever gotten and pretty good. Tea selection is pathetic. They have a mind-boggling five varieties. Sugar comes in the form of a jar of flavored and colored rock candy. Nice touch. And that's a good analogy for all of Nuovo. Food that takes a back seat to style. Not too much of a back seat, but noticeable. Even the desserts, presented wonderfully, are all rather basic in inception. They makes an attempt, but Al Forno still has the best desserts in town. Nuovo succeeds, surely, but more as an exercise in style over substance.

UPDATE 5/22/2009: I have had a number of very positive experiences at Nuovo that do much to change my initial perceptions of the food. The fusion food that's there is still too salty, but the menu overall is richer and less gimmicky. I'll add some photos shortly, but until then, I'm adding half of a star. The reason for going is still to experience the desserts, but dinner definitely won't disappoint.

Cafe Nuovo: ***1/2
Price range for two: $40-$100

Cafe Nuovo
One Citizens Plaza
Providence, RI. 02903
401-421-2525

http://www.cafenuovo.com/

Hours
Lunch: Monday through Friday 11:30am to 3:00pm
Dinner: Monday through Thursday 5:00pm to 10:30pm
Friday and Saturday 5:00pm to 11:00pm
Open Sundays for Waterfire

Saturday, August 25, 2007

REVIEW: CAV- ****1/2 / $$$

I fell in love with CAV. The dining area is large, with plenty of seating, so waits are usually short, if at all. The dining area is decorated like Charles Foster Kane's dreams, with loads of antiques, and pieces of art from the four corners of the globe.

While lunch is a treat, and a really good deal, nighttime meals are the star. During the summer, you can sit outside in the small courtyard that houses Jerry's Art Supply and Framing. The small area exudes a quiet Bohemia that isn't nearly as pretentious as Thayer Street. As such, the clientèle isn't as young and trendy as many of the places in Providence. Instead, it's replaced by a well lived, older group in their 30's-50's. If you didn't know, this is a good thing. The random waves of 20-somethings that ramble around Thayer street and the surrounding area are thankfully far away. Probably attracted by the nearby Club Ultra and Snookers.

If you choose to sit inside, you're treated to a dining area that literally glitters. Small lights and candles illuminate the area and all its artistic wonders. It can only be described as ethereal. The staff is young, but not too young, and boy howdy are they friendly and attentive. It can get hairy, strangely, when large groups of people show up out of nowhere. I've experienced this three times, and the staff then gets overloaded. I can only assume it's commonly uncommon... or something.

Their appetizers are impressive. The Pizza St. Donato is a personal favorite. The gorgonzola isn't overpowering, which is always nice to taste. Their crab cakes and bruschetta are delicious, but the crab cake is a bit pricey at $13. It's more than made up for with the prices on the entrees. CAV's entrees are some of the strongest in Providence. The delectably sweet and savory Poulet aux Poires (chicken with pears) and Shrimp Scampy in vodka butter sauce are really fantastic. And for what CAV is, the prices are very reasonable. The available prix fixe menu is a good deal at $17, but underwhelming, and appears to be aimed at bargain gourmets who like their food good and bland. All sections in account, the menu is rather limited. I would like to see more specials and all-around more spontaneity coming out of the kitchen. The wild and crazy nature of the restaurant cries out for random amuses-bouche to be served.

Their dessert offerings are not as good as their dinner and lunch offerings, but that's barely a complaint. They change frequently enough and include things like the mind-blowing chocolate cake/tort/thing, served with house-made meringues, and an interesting coconut sorbet served in the coconut shell. Try their biscotti. I don't think it's made there, but it's some of the best I've had. I really need to find out where they get it.

CAV also offers a Sunday Brunch that's kinda' blah. Sunday brunch is supposed to be a buffet or some other interpretation of the "eat till you puke" ethos. The food is well-priced and very, very tasty, but it's still just breakfast. They don't answer the ever-important question "why here?" Why should I go to CAV instead of, say, Bickford's, where it's breakfast anytime? I guess the aforementioned lack of youthful morons and the always pleasurable atmosphere somewhat answer that question, but not totally. CAV's brilliance just doesn't carry over to breakfast.

Still, CAV would need a far greater transgression than bland breakfast to dull their grand lunch and dinner. It is a wonder of Providence and all of New England. Restaurants in New York that charge twice the price don't offer as much. CAV is, without doubt, one of the best.

Thursday, August 23, 2007

On Top of Old Latte, All Covered in Foam.

After a post awhile back about two coffees, Tango Java and and Sumatran Blue Batak, it hit me. I hadn't given brewing directions. You can't just say "Oh, this is good coffee" and not specify how you mean it's good coffee. If anything, I left out the most important part.

Coffee is a personal obsession. My beautiful counterpart shares a similar obsession with tea... philistine... but we won't hold that against her. The single most important aspect is not the coffee, but the brewing. Pretty much all available whole-bean coffees are good. As long as you buy Arabica, which is pretty much the only kind available, you're safe. (A note on Arabica. The two kinds of widely available beans are called Arabica and Robusto. Robusto is more bitter, doesn't have as strong a coffee flavor, and has significantly more caffeine in it. It's looked down upon in many areas of the world, but I feel it has gotten a bum rap. There are many European blends that use both Arabica and Robusto to achieve unique flavors.)

So brewing is the most important part. And what is brewing but water? SO! The most important part of brewing is the water. If you live in an area with notoriously hard or bad-tasting water, either buy a filter or, you may want to consider, buy big jugs of distilled water at Wal-Mart and use those.

Many people will say the minerals in various kinds of water affect the taste in both positive and negative ways. I actually agree, but still prefer my water as filtered as possible. I prefer to taste the coffee alone, unaffected by characteristics of the water. Water can also have an affect on the strength of the coffee. Water with certain minerals will dissolve through coffee differently. That may prove the be the biggest difference between waters. Consider me on one extreme and bad tap water on the other extreme. Your best bet is to buy a Brita filter or equivalent and make your coffee with that. You always want to start off with cool to cold water.

Second, buy a good coffee machine. You don't have to buy one of those $1,000 espresso machines, but $200 is not insane for a quality machine. My favorite is the recently released Capresso ST600. If you actually care about quality coffee, this is no job for a $9 heap of Chinese plastic from Wal*Mart.

Finally, back to the actual beans. Both of those coffees are very mild, which I've always loved. But they won't go well in lattes or cappuccinos. They're so mild the flavor is kind of lost. If you make your cappu-lattes very dark, the flavor will be fine, but if you add a shot of espresso to a full cup of steamed milk, you might as well just drink coffee milk. The Blue Batak gave me one of the best macchiatos I've ever had.