Chain restaurants that fall into the "casual dining" market bracket have, over the course of the last twenty-odd years, come to dominate the landscape. They have been the catalyst to a nearly complete reorganizing of the target markets, have nearly killed the previously booming haute-cuisine industry in the US, have increased the amount many people are spending on food by multiple times, and have likely played a major part in the increasingly alarming size of the American waistline. They have, in a very literal way, redefined food in America.
I could write an entire book on the effects of casual dining has had on our fine country, but instead, for the more limited scope of this article, I will write mini-reviews of each one. I won't bother much addressing service, atmosphere, or design, since all of them seem to subscribe to the exact same philosophy. Also, I won't assign a $-rating to them since their prices are all similar. Instead, I will talk primarily about the food with brief mention of price. Again, the star ratings are based on my traditional ratings system and not in exclusive comparison to other casual dining restaurants.
My reviews are limited to what I have nearby, but living in the northeast, nestled between Boston and New York, provides me with access to nearly every major chain in the country.
An issue that I generally had with many of these places is that the menus are laughably similar, and they all followed the same strategies to hide poor ingredients. Cheesecake Factory is one of the worst, with nearly everything on the menu tasting heavy, greasy, and cheap.
UPDATE: Added Johnny Rockets to the list.
UPDATE: Added Five Guys to the list. Edited Johny Rockets entry from *** to **1/2. Reduced Bertucci's from **1/2 to **.
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Chili's- **1/2
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Applebee's- **
Applebee's is the second of the trio, the largest, and also the worst. I've never had bad food at an Applebee's. Quality control is obviously high, and unlike some other restaurants, like Olive Garden, they don't overreach the quality of their ingredients in their recipes. But that also means that all of the recipes are either quite bland or taste like something that I bought at Stop & Shop and microwaved. The menu is borderline identical with both Chile's and TGIF, the only difference being inferior recipes.
TGI Friday's- **1/2
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IHOP- **1/2
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Denny's- *1/2
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Cheescake Factory- **
I have never had a fully satisfactory meal at the Cheesecake Factory. I don't want to go so far as to call it bad, but the food is always fatty, greasy, sugary, breaded, dipped, and slathered in sauce. Their website says:
"The Cheesecake Factory menu features more than 200 menu selections made fresh from scratch each day — using only the highest quality ingredients — which combines to create our remarkable tastes."
If by remarkable tastes they mean remarkably average, then they are right on the money. The bit about highest quality ingredients is laughable. Chicken is gummy. Steak is tough. There are a number of recipes that are very good. It depends on if the ingredients for that item are naturally cheap. I suspect that much of the poor quality has to do with with offering over two hundred items. Two hundred?! No kitchen can produce two hundred items and keep quality at the utmost. It would be the size of a warehouse.
Cheesecake Factory also holds the distinction of being the Worst Restaurant in America, according to Men's Health Magazine. They say that "
California Pizza Kitchen- ***
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Red Robin- ***
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Johnny Rockets- **1/2
Recently, I have been to both the Providence and Cranston locations and been shocked by the poor service. I'm absolutely not one to complain — I commiserate with all food service people — but I have been left with no service for, on one occasion, nearly twenty minutes. No menus. No water. No hellos. The waiter arrived less than thirty seconds before we were about to get up to leave. I stress that this has happened on multiple occasions and at two different locations.
I do not blame the employees. Because to me, this speaks of corporate fuckery. To me, this speaks of employees being treated poorly and paid crappy wages. Most importantly, this speaks of corporate fuckery because service wasn't always like this. Service was previously excellent and then, quiet suddenly, hit the skids. This indicates some idiot with an MBA coming in and finding "inefficiencies." For most idiots with MBAs, this usually involves cutting pay to lower-level employees (Just look at how well that worked for Circuit City). The person who made this decision is almost undoubtedly white, male, and a libertarian. I do not find it surprising that during this period of drastic service quality loss, Johnny Rockets changed hands between investment groups twice: in 2007 and in 2013.
My father has an interesting phrase that I have adopted: grass in the parking lot. This is a term applied to anything in business that has been visibly left to degrade. This is indicative of both bad management and poor business. It is a sign of dying. With that phrase in mind, I don't know of any locations that have their jukeboxes actually functioning, and this has been the case for some time. Coincidentally, since about 2007. It's not surprising that the current owner of Johnny Rockets, Sun Capital, also owns other struggling restaurant chains, including the foundering Friendly's and Boston Market, the latter of which was recently lampooned by The Onion. Boston Market's CEO was featured on Undercover Boss where a shift manager was fired for complaining about customers. Well, instead of getting angry, how about paying your employees more than shit? Oh right. I forgot. CEOs are good at getting self-righteous on camera, but when it comes to putting money where their mouth is, pissed off employees are just fine.
That was something of a tangent. So back to the point, I suspect that Johnny Rockets is dying. We don't know this because the revenue figures are hidden in the earnings of investment group figure sheets, but when the amount of grass that I see in their parking lot is growing, it's the only conclusion to reach.
All that said, the food is still alright. The 1950's kitsch isn't overwhelming and doesn't seem bolted on, since the whole concept of a Golden Age diner is woven into the company's DNA. Most burgers are in the $6-$7, which places them just below the burgers at places like Red Robin and Smokey Bones, and just above the burgers at Five Guys. That's a tough spot, and with their service so bad, an untenable spot.
Johnny Rockets is not bad, but I would still never again go there.
Five Guys Burger and Fries- ***1/2 (Read my full review)
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The downside is the inevitable result of all of its upsides: children. Tons of them. Cheap, high-quality burgers can fill the bellies of an entire minivan of screaming, human larvae and parents all across the land take Five Guys up on its offer. Weekends around dinner time are BEDLAM. The noise level whittles away any emotional energy you have as the employees work diligently to clean up the spills that happen every five minutes. This period of chaos is short, though, and going during off hours is pleasant. The store is almost always busy, but only during those crush hours is it nigh-intolerable.
All things considered, Five Guys is the burger joint to hit up for a quick, cheap, delicious burger. Forget McDonald's. Forget Burger King. Forget Wendy's. Unless your alternatives are hidden, local, diamonds in the rough like Beef Barn, Go to Five Guys.
Cracker Barrel- **
I hate absolutely everything about Cracker Barrel. I hate its kitsch. I hate its ambiance. I hate its decor. I hate its religious foundations. I hate that they make you wait in a "country store" for your table. Even if the food was amazing, I would never visit. Unfortunately for them, the food isn't amazing. It's greasy, overly salty, and poorly cooked. They have a good breakfast selection, but their food is no better or worse than IHOP. Like many chain places, nothing at Cracker Barrel is bad. But if it doesn't stand out in some fundamental way, why go? I see no reason, and as such, I don't.
Olive Garden- *1/2
How something like this succeeds in a state where half of the population is Italian leaves me baffled. First, the good: the salads are all acceptable, and the pasta is decent. The sauce is entirely unremarkable and herbs and spices seem to be something to which the chefs have never been properly introduced. The pathetically weak flavor is indicative of freeze-dried herbs used across the boards. Ingredient quality is noticeably poor. Chicken, something that is generally seen as bulletproof, is 100% borked at The Olive Garden. It is always rubbery, flavorless, and fatty on the palate. Steak is never cooked correctly, but not like it matters. The meat is very cheap. Olive Garden also holds the distinction of using my most hated advertising tagline in history: "When You're Here, You're Family." Fuck you. No I'm not. If I was family, you wouldn't be charging me.
Ruby Tuesday- ***
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Longhorn Steakhouse- ***
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Outback Steakhouse- ***
Bertucci's- **
Bertucci's pizza is very good. They also have a gigantic array of available toppings. Their prices are just this side of insane, though. You are undoubtedly better off trying local pizza places until you find a good one. Either that or make pizza at home; it's very, very easy. Their pasta is universally too salty. They must honestly cook it in sea water. Their red sauce is watery and bland, with zero body and no punch. There are quite a few jarred sauces that are significantly better. Seafood quality is low, but not terrible. If I wanted non-pizza Italian food, the only place that I would prefer less is The Olive Garden.
Ted's Montana Grill- ***
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Everything is of very high quality. Recipes are austere. The centerpiece of the menu is their selection of bison meat, of which I'm not the biggest fan. The only major knock against them is that their prices are quite high. Where most places sell burgers for $8-$10, Ted's starts at $10 for a naked burger, and gets as high as $15. Bison meat adds $3 to each burger. That is a pricey burger. With that in mind, Ted's is still a very good restaurant. You will enjoy your food.
Smokey Bones: ***1/2
Smokey Bones is great. They have a large, dynamic menu of high-quality food. Their BBQ options are all excellent. Their pulled pork is hands-down the best that you can buy at any chain. Their prices are fully competitive. Their kitsch is more than a little off-putting, and since they changed owners and were rebranded a "fire grill," whatever the hell that is, they have bits of "wisdom" posted around the place that read like something out of The Man Show scripts. It's almost enough to ruin the excellent food, but not quite. If you want BBQ, I would recommend Smokey Bones over every other chain, and even most local places.
Carrabba's- ***1/2
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Texas Roadhouse- ***
Birthday celebrations are the most obnoxious of all restaurants in the entirety of the galaxy. They wheel out a saddle, scream, holler, and point a light in the face of the subject like they want information. Worse, people actually seem to enjoy this, because no less than nine hundred birthdays will happen while you are there. This horrifying show is enough to keep me away for ever.
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I have a love-hate relationship with chain restaurants. On the one hand, they are an economic force that is causing local restaurants to either step up their game or go out of business. This is a good thing because local places have a tendency to simply do the same thing, and do that same thing, at times, poorly. The chains come in with brutal efficiency, marketing, style, cheap prices, and the ability to handle massive crowds.
It is also a bad thing because they force conformity upon the general market. Local restaurants will simply fall in line, and before you know it, all of the restaurants in the area are serving the same damned food. Unless you live in an urban center, your selections are very limited because of these restaurants.
Moreover, since the restaurants are usually not run by people who want to own restaurants, profit is the deciding factor in recipes and ingredient choices. Obviously, profit is always important, but most local places are run by people that simply enjoy running a restaurant. But since they have less to save by switching to lower-quality materials, as they are serving fewer meals, they are less inclined to do so. Compare this to the horrible quality frequently seen at chains. Because saving $0.25 per meal equals huge profits when your restaurant is pumping out fifty million meals per year.
That said, there are quite a few places out there that are truly a cut above. Restaurants like Carrabba's, Smokey Bones, and Ted's show that even a major chain can be a legitimate destination. They can be such because they don't shoot for generic food. Their menus have unique, identifiable character. There is quality out there in the din. Sometimes it is hard to find, but the quest is, without doubt, worthwhile.